Supplying photographs or videos

The better the quality of the photograph which you can supply, the better the finished painting will be.

Only one main photograph is used for the painting, I do not compile references from multiple sources. Essentially we go through a process together to arrive at choosing one image which you feel carries the character of the subject and which I feel I can be successfully translated in to a portrait painting. Photographs should be clear, in focus with the subject occupying the majority of the frame.

CHECKLIST

Send a good selection of photos. You cannot send too many! In the first instance, screenshots are fine.
Make sure that the whole of the head and face are contained within the photo, including the ears. The face should not be obscured in anyway (by objects or hands). If we are considering a full length portrait, you will need to include the entire figure, making sure that the hands and feet are not cropped out of the image.
High resolution or professional photographs are not necessary, but a certain level of information is needed. Photographs where the face or figure is pictured in the dark or in the distance are not usually suitable.
Photographs taken on camera phones at very close range (including selfies) tend to distort the face. Due to the short lens of the camera they create a ‘fish eye’ effect. Photographs taken on a camera phone are fine, but the subject should not be too close to the lens.
Expression: big smiles look good in photos, but they don’t make the most successful paintings. Grinning or laughing portraits can end up looking frozen and awkward. I prefer to work with softer more natural expressions, as they give a more timeless feel.
The background is not usually a problem and can be adjusted during the painting process.

If you have a particular photograph in mind which does not answer this set of ideals, I recommend that you send it to me so that I can evaluate whether it will work.

TIPS FOR taking photos AT HOME

Sometimes the easiest way of supplying the photos needed is to take new ones. You will need only a camera phone, a little patience and about 20 minutes of your time. You don’t need to follow these instructions exactly, they are just a guide.

Position the subject in a well lit room where there is a good light source. We want some light and some shadow in the photographs. Standing or sitting them near a window can work well. The light source will have some effect on the mood of the painting. Daylight will give a softer, more natural feel where as artificial light (such as a lamp) in a dark room will create stronger shadows, and a more dramatic, classical feel.
Use the ‘portrait’ setting on your camera phone if you have one.
Hold the camera straight and level with the face (at eye level).
Vary the ‘turn’ of the face: take some photos ‘straight on’, some from the side ( in profile) and also in three quarter profile.
Vary the gaze: ask them to look directly towards the camera, and also take some photos with them looking away from the camera, looking up and looking down.
Take a LOT of quick, unlaboured photos
Make sure that you include the whole of the head, face and neck as a minimum
For very small children is it can be helpful to photograph them whilst they are playing, watching TV or even sleeping
As an alternative (or in addition) to photographs, take a short 180 degree video of your subject, walking around them from one side to the other, holding the camera straight and at their eye level. We can use this footage to grab ‘screenshots’.

Profile (photo from the side).

Joe is facing the window which means that his face is in light, with some shadow. A little light and a little shadow is ideal.

Three quarter profile (the face turned slightly away)

Three quarter profile

A ‘straight on headshot’ with a soft smile

Profile from the other side.

Ask the model to vary their gaze. Here Joe is looking down.

Looking up and to the side.

Direct ‘to camera’ gaze

Natural light. Joe is standing in front of the window, with light coming in behind him. It creates a soft ‘halo’ effect.

The lighting will affect the mood of the painting. Daylight gives a soft, more natural feeling. This photo is taken in a dark room with Joe faced towards a single light source (a lamp). This set up is good works well for portraits with a more classical feel.

This photo would not be suitable because there is too much information missing (the ear and the back of the head)

This photo would not be suitable because it has been taken at close range and created a distorted ‘fish eye’ effect. This swells the central features and is not true to life or flattering. If using a camera phone, hold it at least 40 cm away from the face.

Photos where the face is obscured by hands or objects are hard to work with.

An example of a quick, ‘at home photo shoot’ for a bust (head and shoulder) portrait painting.

Try to get some shots of your pet with the whole of their body contained within the frame.

Take photos of their face from lots of different angles. Photos with balls or toys in front of their face are not usually suitable, unless you wish them to be included within the painting.

An example of photos which are suitable for a pet portrait painting.

A short 180 video, starting from one side and walking slowly all the way round to the other and back again. I do this a few times as my model gets the giggles.

PHOTOGrAPHS OF ANIMALS

Supplying good quality photographs of animals can be challenging. Where possible follow the guidelines above and simply do the best that you can! It can be helpful to have somebody else with you to try and use treats or toys to hold the animal’s attention. Photographs of sleeping animals can work well providing their face is not obscured by bedding. For dogs who are able to ‘sit and stay’ try to aim for a few head shots and shots which include their full length.